A good traditional deadbolt is physically stronger than most smart locks. A smart lock is functionally smarter about staying locked. The best setup? Both. A Grade 1 deadbolt with a smart lock retrofit on top. But if you have to pick one, keep reading—it depends entirely on what kind of threat you’re actually worried about.
This is the comparison piece that should exist everywhere but doesn’t. Most “deadbolt vs smart lock” articles list features side by side and call it a day. We’re going deeper: pick attacks, forced entry, failure scenarios, long-term cost, and the one factor that matters more than any of them.
I’ve picked both traditional deadbolts and locks attached to smart lock systems. I’ve seen how they fail. Here’s what I found.
The Matchup
For this comparison, we’re using representatives from each category that a typical homeowner might buy:
Traditional deadbolt: The Schlage B60N—ANSI Grade 1, standard pin tumbler, no electronics. Street price around $30-45. This is the benchmark because it’s cheap, widely available, and carries the highest residential security grade.
Smart lock (full replacement): The Yale Assure Lock 2—ANSI Grade 2, touchscreen keypad, Wi-Fi module. Street price around $240-260. This represents the smart lock category at its best.
Smart lock (retrofit): The August Wi-Fi Smart Lock—mounts over your existing deadbolt. Street price around $150-200. Security depends entirely on the deadbolt underneath.
Test 1: Pick Resistance
This is where hands-on locksport experience tells you things that spec sheets don’t.
Schlage B60N (Traditional)
The Schlage uses a standard 5-pin tumbler with security pins (spools). For a beginner picker, this is a 10-20 minute lock. For someone experienced, it’s a 2-5 minute lock depending on the bitting. The Schlage C keyway has moderate pick resistance—not the hardest to navigate, but the spool pins add a layer of difficulty that cheap locks don’t have. It’s also bump-resistant, which matters more in the real world since bump keys require less skill than picking.
Yale Assure Lock 2 (Smart, Full Replacement)
The keyed models use a Yale keyway with standard pins. Pick resistance is similar to the Schlage—moderate, not exceptional. However, the keyless models have no keyway at all, which means there’s literally nothing to pick. You can’t bump it, rake it, or single-pin pick it. The physical attack surface is eliminated entirely.
That said, the keyless model introduces a different vulnerability: the touchscreen. If someone can shoulder-surf your PIN or find it written on a sticky note, they’re in. And unlike a physical key, a PIN can be shared instantly and infinitely without you knowing.
August Wi-Fi Smart Lock (Retrofit)
August doesn’t change your lock’s pick resistance at all. If the deadbolt underneath is a Master Lock No. 3 equivalent in deadbolt form (cheap, zero security pins), the August just adds a motor to a bad lock. If the deadbolt is a quality Schlage or Medeco, the August inherits that pick resistance.
Test 2: Forced Entry (Kick Resistance)
This is the test that actually matters. The FBI’s burglary data consistently shows that the majority of break-ins through doors happen by force—kicking, prying, or shoulder-ramming. Lock picking is a rounding error in residential crime. So how your lock handles brute force is arguably the most important security factor.
What Resists a Kick
It’s not actually the lock. It’s three things working together: the deadbolt throw length (how far the bolt extends into the frame), the strike plate (the metal plate in the door frame that receives the bolt), and the frame itself. A 1-inch deadbolt throw into a reinforced strike plate with 3-inch screws going into the wall studs will resist far more force than any lock alone.
Schlage B60N
ANSI Grade 1 certification means this lock’s bolt assembly passed a 150-pound force test and ten strikes from a battering ram. The bolt itself is a standard 1-inch throw. With the included strike plate upgraded to an aftermarket reinforced version with 3-inch screws, this combination is extremely difficult to kick open.
Yale Assure Lock 2
ANSI Grade 2 certification means 75-pound force test and five battering ram strikes. That’s half the force resistance of the Schlage. The bolt throw is similar (1 inch), but the Grade 2 assembly has less tolerance for repeated impacts. In a forced entry scenario, the Yale is more likely to fail before the Schlage.
August (Retrofit)
Since August sits on top of whatever deadbolt you have, forced entry resistance is determined entirely by that deadbolt. The August motor and tailpiece adapter add no structural reinforcement. If anything, the adapter introduces a small amount of mechanical play between the motor and the bolt, though this is unlikely to matter in a real kick attack.
Test 3: Failure Modes
Every lock eventually fails. How it fails matters as much as how strong it is.
| Failure Scenario | Traditional Deadbolt | Smart Lock |
|---|---|---|
| Power outage | No effect. Fully mechanical. | Motor stops working. Manual thumb turn or backup key still works (if keyed model). Keyless models need 9V battery trick. |
| Dead batteries | N/A. No batteries. | Lock becomes unresponsive externally. Backup key or emergency power required. |
| Wi-Fi outage | N/A. | No remote access. Bluetooth still works within range. Keypad still works. |
| Lost key | Locked out until locksmith arrives. Rekey needed. | Use PIN, fingerprint, or phone app. Revoke access codes remotely. |
| Forgot to lock | Door stays unlocked until you remember. | Auto-lock engages after set timer. DoorSense alerts you if door is left open. |
| Hacking / digital attack | Impossible. No electronics to exploit. | Low risk with reputable brands (AES-128 encryption), but non-zero. Bluetooth relay attacks are theoretically possible. |
| Mechanical wear | Pins wear slowly over decades. Very durable. | Motor, gears, and circuit board can fail. Touchscreens degrade with UV exposure. Lifespan typically 5-8 years. |
| Extreme cold | Mechanical parts may stiffen but still work. | Batteries drain faster. Touchscreens may become sluggish. Motor can struggle. |
The pattern is clear: traditional deadbolts fail less often because there are fewer components that can fail. Smart locks fail more gracefully in some scenarios (lost keys, forgotten locks) but introduce entirely new failure modes that mechanical locks don’t have.
Test 4: Cost Over Time
This is the comparison nobody makes but should.
Traditional Deadbolt (Schlage B60N)
Purchase: ~$35. Installation: DIY in 20 minutes or $50-100 for a locksmith. Batteries: none. Annual maintenance: zero. Expected lifespan: 15-25+ years. Total 10-year cost: roughly $35-135.
Smart Lock (Yale Assure Lock 2 with Wi-Fi)
Purchase: ~$260. Installation: DIY in 30 minutes. Batteries: $8-12 per year (AA batteries replaced every 6-9 months). Optional Wi-Fi module if not bundled: $79. Expected lifespan: 5-8 years (you’ll likely want to replace when software support ends). Total 10-year cost: roughly $400-600 including one replacement unit.
Retrofit Smart Lock (August Wi-Fi)
Purchase: ~$180. Plus existing deadbolt: $30-45. Batteries: $10-15 per year (CR123 batteries, replaced every 4-5 months). Expected lifespan: 4-6 years for the smart module. Total 10-year cost: roughly $350-500 including one replacement unit and batteries.
Smart locks cost 4-5x more over a decade than a traditional deadbolt. Whether that premium is worth it depends entirely on how much you value the convenience features. For some people—Airbnb hosts, forgetful lockers, multi-user households—the math absolutely works out. For others, a $35 deadbolt does the job better.
The Factor Nobody Talks About
Here’s the single most important thing about any lock, smart or dumb: it only works when it’s engaged.
According to data from home insurance claims and law enforcement reports, a significant percentage of residential burglaries happen through unlocked doors and windows. Not picked, not kicked—unlocked. Left open by someone in a hurry, or by someone who forgot.
This is where smart locks have an enormous, underrated advantage. Auto-lock features ensure the deadbolt engages every single time the door closes. DoorSense alerts tell you when the door is left open. Activity logs show you exactly when access occurred and by whom.
A $300 smart lock that’s always locked is infinitely more secure than a $35 deadbolt that’s left open three times a week. That’s the real security argument for smart locks, and it has nothing to do with encryption or pick resistance.
Who Wins? (It Depends on You)
A Grade 1 deadbolt with a reinforced strike plate and 3-inch screws. Pair with a door reinforcement kit for the best protection against forced entry.
Auto-lock and DoorSense eliminate the “did I lock the door?” problem entirely. That alone is worth the premium for many families.
Scheduled PIN codes, activity logs, and remote access make guest management effortless. No more key exchanges or locksmith visits between tenants.
$35 for a Grade 1 deadbolt that lasts 20+ years with zero maintenance. Nothing in the smart lock category comes close on value per dollar of security.
Batteries die faster in extreme cold. Touchscreens become unresponsive. Mechanical locks don’t care about temperature (though the keyway may need graphite lubricant).
Put an August or similar retrofit on a Grade 1 Schlage deadbolt. You get the physical security of the deadbolt plus the convenience of smart features. Best combination if you can afford ~$200 total.
The Bottom Line
There is no single “better” option. A traditional deadbolt is stronger. A smart lock is smarter. The ideal setup combines both: a Grade 1 mechanical deadbolt with a retrofit smart lock on top, a reinforced strike plate, and 3-inch screws into the studs. That gives you the physical resistance of a commercial-grade bolt and the auto-lock intelligence that prevents the most common security failure of all—forgetting to lock up.
Our recommendations for each category:
Schlage B60N (Deadbolt) → Yale Assure Lock 2 (Smart) → August Wi-Fi (Retrofit) →Related Reading
For individual reviews, see our August Smart Lock After 6 Months and Yale Assure Lock 2 reviews. For more on ANSI lock grades and what they actually test, we have a full explainer. And if you want to understand how burglars actually get in (spoiler: it’s not by picking), check out our Deep Cuts article on burglar psychology and residential entry points.